Beyond Gorillas
Terraced farmland and forested hills near RushagaLake Bunyonyi with wooded islandsForested hills above Rushaga under a big sky
Rushaga, Bwindi, Uganda

The trek is one morning. The village is the rest.

Days out with the people who live around Bwindi: coffee, weaving, the Batwa trails, music. Book direct and the money stays in the villages next to the park.

Most people come to Bwindi for one morning with the gorillas. Stay for the people who live beside the forest.

Mountain gorilla eating leaves in Bwindi
The reason you came

One hour with a gorilla family.

We help with permits, lodging and the trek itself. Then we show you what else this corner of Uganda has to offer.

What we do

Permits get people to Bwindi. We give them something to do after.

Most visitors trek, sleep, and leave. The families around the park see very little of that money. We work with local guides and groups to offer days out run by the people who live here, so guests meet them properly and the payment goes straight to them.

We also help with gorilla permits and lodging, and we plan the whole trip if you want one person to deal with.

Wooden farm gate on a track above a green valley
Forested valley with tea and farmland near Rushaga
Days out

Pick one. Or stack two.

Red cups of coffee on a patterned cloth013 hours

Coffee with a farmer

Walk the farm, pick, dry and roast on a clay pot, then drink what you made.

A small waterfall in a rocky stream bed02Full day

Batwa forest trails

Walk with Batwa guides who explain how the forest was used for food and medicine.

A hand-woven basket on a forest path in morning light032 hours

Basket weaving

Sit with local women and learn the weave. Take your basket home.

Village dancers in orange skirts in a forest clearing04Ask us

Community dance

A local group sings, drums and dances. Stay for the questions afterwards.

Terraced ridge with a dirt track05Ask us

Village and farm walk

Banana beer brewing, tea plantation walks and community walks with a local guide.

Students in green uniforms at their desks in a classroom06On request

School visit, cooking, birding

Ask us. We arrange these around your dates.

Times are typical. We fit them around your trek day.

Dance circle in a forest clearing under tall trees
The Rushaga dance group

Women from the village, on their own ground.

They perform in a clearing at the forest edge. It is not a stage show. You stand close, you feel the drum in your chest, and afterwards they will talk to you if you ask.

Dancers in orange skirts and navy shirts, arms raised
Singers around a drum in patterned wraps
The Batwa

The first people of the forest.

The Batwa are one of the oldest peoples of the Great Lakes region of Africa. For thousands of years they lived in the forests here, in what is now Uganda, Rwanda and Congo.

You may also hear the Batwa called "Pygmies". It is the old outside word for them, and for other short-statured forest peoples of Central Africa. Many Batwa dislike it, so we say Batwa.

What happened to them

Bwindi became a national park in 1991, partly to protect the mountain gorillas. The Batwa were made to leave the forest they had lived in. Most received no land and no compensation. They lost their homes, their food and their way of life. Many still live in poverty today.

A child in a costume of moss and woven grass, looking at the camera
Portrait of an older woman in a checked orange wrap
Culture and life

A life made from the forest.

For the Batwa the forest was home, food store and medicine cabinet in one place. Families moved through it in small groups. They hunted small game with bows and dogs, and gathered honey, wild fruit, mushrooms and roots. They knew which plants treat which illness.

Song and story

Music is at the center of Batwa life. They sing and dance to celebrate, to welcome visitors and to mark important moments. Songs, stories and plant knowledge are passed on by voice, from elders to children. Much of it is now held by older people, which is why it matters to sit and listen.

Life today

Since leaving the forest, many Batwa have had to build new lives from nothing. Some farm, some make pottery, and some share their culture with visitors.

On the Batwa trail you walk with Batwa guides who show you how the forest was used for food and medicine, and how hunting was done. You listen, you ask questions, and you learn at their pace.

Silver Twesiime with his daughter Gloria at the Uganda Equator monument at sunset
Silver with his daughter Gloria.
The man behind it

Silver grew up in Rushaga. Now he gives back to it.

Silver Twesiime was born in Rushaga, the village at the edge of Bwindi. Uganda's troubled years meant he did not start primary school until he was 13. He went on to become a teacher.

He built Nshongi Camp in the village where he was born, beside the park gate where the gorilla treks begin. Family comes first for him, and his daughter Gloria is part of this story too.

Silver is a philanthropist, and he does a great deal for the local community. He supports the local school and many other projects around the village, including these two.

Rushaga Community SchoolA school with 260 students, 113 of whom live there full time.
Rushaga Nshongi OrphanageFormed in 2010 and run by the community. It covers education, health care and counseling for orphans.
13His age at first school
TeacherBefore camp builder
RushagaWhere he was born
School visits

Sit in a classroom. Meet the children.

Schools around Rushaga are simple. Mud walls, tin roofs, wooden benches, and classes with a lot of children in them. A visit is something we arrange on request, and it is done with the school's agreement.

You see how a school day runs, you meet the teachers and the children, and you see what the school needs. Ask us before you come what is useful to bring.

Children in green sweaters and teal skirts lined up outdoors with hills behind
Young children sitting together on the grass at school
Pupils at their desks in a classroom
Children playing in the school yard in front of a classroom block
Our impact

From your booking to the forest, in five steps.

We keep this simple on purpose. This is the order it moves in.

You book directNo agent in the middle.
Guide is paidA fair day rate.
Families earnFarmers, weavers, dancers.
Schools and clinicsSupplies and repairs.
Forest staysTree planting, plastic pick-ups, anti-poaching.
Places

Around Bwindi, and further.

We are based in Rushaga, in the south of Bwindi Impenetrable National Park. For longer trips we also plan Queen Elizabeth, Lake Bunyonyi, the Rwenzoris, Mgahinga, Kibale, Murchison Falls, Lake Mutanda, Lake Mburo, Semuliki and Kidepo.

Terraced hills above Lake Bunyonyi
Young mountain gorilla looking out through leaves
A wooden viewing deck above a green forest clearing
A young man and two children standing on a hill above Lake Bunyonyi
Elephant beside the road near Queen Elizabeth National Park
Malachite kingfisher on a reed
Buffalo cooling off in the Kazinga Channel
Yellow-billed stork on the bank of the Kazinga Channel

Rushaga, Lake Bunyonyi, and a boat trip on the Kazinga Channel in Queen Elizabeth National Park.

Lake Bunyonyi with islands and green hills
Plan a trip

Tell us your dates.

Message us on WhatsApp for the quickest answer. Tell us how many people, how many days, and whether you already have gorilla permits.

Email
info@beyondgorillas.com
Phone
+256 774 231 913
Where
Rushaga, Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, Uganda
Hours
Daily, 8:00 to 18:00 (East Africa Time)